A SuperNoVA Family: August 2015

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Philmont: Going Home, 7/25/15

Up around 6 one last time, and one more shower in order to be presentable (or something like it) tonight when I get home. A last Philmont breakfast--egg burritos, I skipped that--and packed out for the buses under another absolutely perfect sunny sky.

Northward to CO Springs. It's said that if you can see the arrowhead shape within the rocks of Tooth Ridge as you drive away, you'll return to Philmont. Looking over my shoulder...yep, there it is. Another 100+ miles in my future? I tend to doubt it. On the bus, they showed us Night At The Museum 3, which I'd not seen, so that ate up much of the drive to CO Springs, where we ate a Pizza Hut out of their buffet...it tasted really good after two weeks of trail meals.

North to Denver Int'l, napping much of the way. Checked in by 3, and so 2 1/2 hours to kill before departure. Some key takeaways from my Philmont experience?

Experience of God. The way He kept urging me along in the difficult parts of the walk, reminding me He had my back and teaching me to trust more fully in Him. The breathtaking, beautiful time atop Mt Phillips. His playful side, sending a trio of birds to fly right in front of me on Reyado Canyon Ridge. His drawing my attention to the gold flakes in the upper Reyado Creek, as if to say, look at all the riches I want to share with you. The voices of the other Scouts in devo each night, as they shared their own experiences. It all made for a richness and a closeness I truly enjoyed.
Watching David. A tremendous gift was being able to share this with my son. I truly am glad to see the young man he's becoming: conscientious, considerate, taking in the views and the surroundings, allowing the Spirit to move in him. I'm glad to see how he's maturing and readying himself for whatever other challenges he'll confront. If I'd come as a Scout myself, 30+ years ago, I don't think I'd have enjoyed it as much--nearlyas much--as I did by being able to share it with my David. Thanks again for the invitation, D. It meant the world to me.
Accomplishment. 61 trail miles by the map, 106 total miles since trailhead, a quarter million steps in two weeks, alimbing an 11,711-foot mountain, and completing the trek safely--it's all a great personal accomplishment too, and while I give God the glory, I can take away from Philmont the confidence that I can do all things through God who gives me strength!
Natural Beauty. I'd mentioned at our last thorns-n-roses at Zastrow that, no matter how I write, or no matter what pictures I bring back, I cannot even begin to describe the incredible, raw, gorgeous landscape of places such as Deer Lake, Mt Phillips, and Reyado Canyon Gorge. Or the sandstone walls atop Cimarroncito that looked like something at a Disney park, but were all real. Again, I'm just blown away at having been able to experience it all so closely. I'll always remember certain of those views, the wildlife, and the sheer untouched-ness of the Philmont backcountry.
No More Everests, Despite the above, I think 11,711' is high enough for me to climb. I think trying to do more, certainly anything technical, is beyond what this 47-year-old corpse is able to do. So, I can set aside (to Mary's great relief I'm sure) my ages-old dream of climbing on Everest someday. And you know what? I'm really OK with that. I pushed this suburban middle-aged body two miles above sea level. I don't think that more, or higher, mountains are part of my calling.

Home to IAD where the air was positively thick and muggy, at least by comparison. Home quickly, and so, so glad to see everyone again. And so, to bed.

Philmont: And I Have Walked (One) Hundred Miles... 7/24/15

Up at 6 once again, and packed up camp for the last time; hard to think we'll be in Homebound Tent City tonight. On the trail by 7:30 for Rayedo Turnaround, where we were to meet our bus at 11. Once on the roads, the boys beat feet one last time, and we were there by 9--a 3 1/2 mile course in 90 minutes! On arrival at Rayedo we went to the Kit Carson house and museum, exploring what a mid-19th-century pueblo house in NM looked like. We explored only for a little while when word came that Zack had negotiated our way onto an earlier bus back to base camp, so at 9:45, onto the bus and off we went.

On the bus, my Fitbit read 6.14 miles, which brought us to a 106.13 mile trail time since leaving the Turkey Creek turnaround 12 days ago. Not bad for a trek rated at 61 miles!

Back at base camp, got our stuff into our tents at Homebound Tent City and opened our lockers, which let me send a selfie with David to Mary and Sarah announcing our arrival. Thence to the laundry, and a hunt for detergent; eventually finished laundry just after lunch, when off to take a shower...felt s-o-o-o good!

Early afternoon rainstorm, unlike what we saw on the trail. During it, over to the Tooth of Time Traders with David to purchase our souvenirs--the classic Philmont leather belts, for which we each chose our buckles, then we got a Christmas tree ornament of the Mt Phillips geodisk. We also got a map, which we'll highlight and frame for the media room downstairs.

Late afternoon, rode the shuttle into Cimarron, where we got burgers for dinner at the St. James Hotel's restaurant. Just splendid to have a real, non-rehydrated-dehydrated meal once again! Very tasty. Then, walked around town exploring shops and buying souvenirs for Mary and Sarah. David (and many of the boys) bought knives; I found a locally-made cross that called out to me as a memento of the God-sightings on the trail. Back to camp for the evening.

26,600 steps for the day meant 12.6 miles more, or 221,163 steps and 112.5mi since leaving here two Mondays ago. Added to the known pre-trail totals, we've moved over 241,822 steps and 122.7 miles since leaving Virginia on the 11th--not bad for two weeks.

Closing campfire was funny, maudlin, and moving. At the close, we all received our Philmont arrowhead patches, signifying we've completed a Philmont trek. A long time waiting for the opportunity to wear it, and I'll gladly do so on my Class A. Talked heartfully with David on the walk back to our tents; it's been a tremendous fortnight for us both.

On the road to Rayedo Turnaround

The end of the trail: Rayedo Turnaround, and the road up ahead.

Kit Carson's house (well, his courtyard and garden)

Looking back towards Trail Peak and the hike we completed

John: Hmmm, what to have for dinner. Zack: I know! Burgers all around!

The St James Hotel, in downtown Cimarron

The Tooth of Time looming over Tent City

Homebound Tent City with Tooth Ridge to the right...see you again?

Philmont: The End In Sight, 7/23/15

We followed the longest hike on the trek with easily the laziest day on the trip. Stephen let us sleep in until 8, then we got off to a slow start, eventually on the trail around 10. To Abreu, at 7,185' around 10:30, where we visited their famous Cantina for an ice-cold root beer. I bought a round for the boys, and it was good to be able to celebrate our trek. It tasted wonderful after a week and a half on the trail; we slotted this well, so it was one of the last activities and a great refresher after a long walk. Part of me really wanted a second one, but given how differently we've been eating these last two weeks, my system was already telling me that one was enough. I feel for Jacob, who had four!

Left Abreu and by noon, at our last camp of the trek, Zastrow--and for the first time since last Tuesday, we're below 7,000 feet (6,960', to be precise). They had a large room in the main cabin that celebrated the BSA Wood Badge, but that didn't impress the boys as much as the array of board games and card games to play. I sat on the front porch and watched the white clouds against the bright blue sky one more time. Lunch ~1:30 and then to set up our campsite one last time on the trail. Jacob volunteered to build a fire immediately, so we had one going by 3pm in 85-degree weather.

My thoughts are definitely turning to home again, as I find myself wondering more how things are going at home moreso than in the beginning and middle of the trek. I can't wait to hear Sarah's stories of Jeremiah Project, too, and I wonder how Fergie will react to our being gone two weeks--probably a bit perplexed, because no matter how much I try to shower in the next couple of days, the trail will still be with me, I'm sure.

Our last trail dinner was an impromptu chicken pot pie; turned out pretty well. I have to say, the food's been generally pretty good at dinner, but I'm definitely getting tired of only cold breakfasts and lunches. 12,755 steps and 6.02 miles brings us to 194,563 and 99.9 miles total, so we'll definitely go over 100 miles, and likely 200K steps, tomorrow on the way to the bus.

After dinner, the staff hosted a baseball game (with a duct tape ball) on a field, which the crew engaged in with energy. The crews each had a chance to bake a dutch oven cobbler as well, and our boys chose vanilla cake with pineapple filling, which turned out pretty well. Then after a closing round of thorns and roses came astronomy with their reflecting telescope before to bed one last time on the trail.

The fireplace is all that remains of the former cabin at Old Abreu. Spooky!

Still following the Rayedo River, but it's definitely getting bigger.

Mr Johnson hiking past six-foot-tall black-eyed susans

A round of (root) beer for my men, barkeep!

I think this was #3 out of the four he drank

Adobe wall and the Abreu cabin

The Rayedo near Zastrow

Still making a tight dining fly after 11 days on the trail!

713-L-4 took the baseball seriously: stretches for warming up beforehand

Play ball! First inning, Sean pitching

Waiting for the pitch

Second inning, David brings the heat

Waiting to connect

Our pineapple cobbler, fresh from the coals

All the crews at Zastrow having cobbler

Us and our sister crew chatting over dessert

Philmont: Our Longest Hike, 7/22/15

Some drama in the night: around 4am, we were jolted awake by cries of "Bear! Bear!" from the crew from Kansas in the campsite next to us. Everyone was awake and anxious for a bit--I heard later that people were tossing out of their tents suspect items that maybe oughtn't have been in there in the first place--but no one came out to see the bear. I was awake for a bit, listening to see if he came our way, and at one point thought I heard something, but it was probably nothing. 6am wakeup call, on a cold morning, perhaps the coldest we had, and not even at our highest altitude. Heard later that perhaps the Kansas crew hadn't seen Barry so much as thought they heard something. Sigh.

Up at 6 then, and packed out for our descent to Carson Meadows. With the trail we had planned to use closed due to the floods this year, Stephen and the boys decided to backtrack to Phillips Junction; on arriving, the boys asked for an extra milk-n-fruit treat for passing through the commissary a second time, and were told no. Just then a truck showed up with a delivery, and Zack and the boys made a deal: we'll empty the truck for fruit and milk. They made quick time of the unloading, and we enjoyed our treats before getting on the road again down to Fish Camp.

Fish Camp was Philmont donor Waite Phillips' fishing lodge at the confluence of two creeks becoming the Rayedo River. We had a tour of the cabin as it was furnished in the late 1920s, which was pretty cool. Actually reminded me a bit of Gram McMartin's lake house on Lake Willoughby. Lunch there, then on the trail again. I had expected it to be a downhill stride following the Rayedo; little did I know we had to climb up to near the ridgeline of the hundreds-of-feet-deep gorge. Absolutely stunning views along the way. A couple of times, the trees and mountain across the gorge looked close enough to touch, it was unreal. We covered the entire ridgeline until the mountains themselves started to end, where we found Carson Meadows. Unfortunately our group got a bit strung out, with some boys up front, others in the middle, and others of us at the back; we got scolded for it by a couple of rangers, so we'll have to hike as more of a crew for the last couple of days.

Late afternoon arrival at camp meant another 28,933 steps and 13.65 miles done, our longest hike of the trek, with a couple of short ones left to finish us off. Totals to date, 181,808 steps and 93.88 miles. Here at 7,720', the air feels positively thick and hot and humid--at least by comparison. Wonder what Virginia will feel like!

Cows wandering through camp at Beaubien in the morning.

The boys in Beaubien Canyon on the way to Phillips Junction again

Let's make a deal! The boys unload a delivery truck to get snacks.

This didn't take long...the boys earning another treat.

Zack fording the Rayedo River

Arriving at Fish Camp

The fishing lodge at Fish Camp

Living room of the fish camp lodge. All furniture made on site 90 years ago.

Dining room into the living room of the lodge

The boys and Mr Johnson in the gaming room of the lodge

Our guide points out features of the kids' bedrooms in the lodge

A grizzly bear rug--reputedly the last grizzly bear shot ever shot in NM, hunted by Mr Phillips

Heading up into the Rayedo Canyon ridgeline, the boys savor the view

Kinda steep, kinda spare terrain to be hiking in

Looking down the canyon a ways down from Fish Camp.

The boys exploring a promontory overlooking the canyon

Down, down, to the river far below

Looking south through the canyon. We still had to hike to the point way far off in the distance.

Rounding the corner of the mountains, we see the end of the line--plains ahead!

Looking back up the canyon--the ridgeline along the left/top is what we hiked, and the point it disappears in the distance is maybe 1/3 of the total distance.

David, savoring the view of the end of the line

The view from Carson Meadows of the Tooth of Time in the distance

David's about had it at this point...a long hike, a tiring day

Philmont: Black Mountain, 7/21/15

Stephen let us sleep in until 7, which felt good. All survived the night sans bear. Bright, sunny, crisp morning--perhaps our stuff will be able to dry & air out today?

Slow getting started; weren't on the trail to Black Mountain Camp until 10. We had to climb another 600' worth of mountain before dropping 800' to Black Mountain Camp, arriving at 11:30, just in time to have to wait for lunch in order to do our program offerings. Finally, at 1, we did our last shooting event of the trek, Civil War-era black powder rifles, .58 cal with a 50-grain charge. But we advisors had the opportunity to do our three shots with a 50, an 80, and a 100-grain charge, the latter of which is closer to a battle charge's worth of powder. I gladly took that chance, and enjoyed it, as I'll probably never get to do this again. The 80-grain charge didn't feel much different, and the 100-grain charge was definitely louder and with a little more kick, but still not unreasonable.

At 2, over to the blacksmith's shack, where we each had a chance to help make a butter knife, which we were able to keep when done. Well, the boys insisted we're actually making a prison shank. In any event, I was glad David had a chance to take part, as he's talked before about wanting to learn blacksmithing as a hobby.

Left at 3 and back up and down to Beaubien, arriving just in time to have stuff branded at their branding station. I had my had and Nalgene branded with the iconic "bar-P-lazy S" Philmont ranch brand. Sunny afternoon and back to camp, having gone to Black Mountain camp (9,040') but not climbing the mountain itself--we'd arrived too late in the day, and by the time programs were over, we weren't going to get up and down that steep face in time. And frankly, the boys are getting tired of climbing. And Black Mountain itself is incredibly steep, towering over the canyon another ~1700'--not much appetite in the crew for tackling it. I mostly agree, but I had wanted to climb more than just Mt Phillips, and with the floods of the spring, it appears we won't get to do Trail Peak, as the trails near it are closed. So much for doing the mountains. But as tired as we all are, I can't say it's a bad thing.

Another 19,858 steps on the trail meant 9.43 miles added to our count: 152,875 steps and 80.23 miles on trails, programs, and camps so far. Big hiking day expected tomorrow, down to Carson Meadows. But first, one more night at Beaubien with Barry the bear around.